David Mitchell
Fun stuff, this Irish "thing".
I remember my only trip to Ireland years ago with Mary's whole family - cousins of I.C. classmate Janet Hughes' family. Altogether 19 of us includng some of us married spouses. (I was allowed to ride down in the cargo space)
We spent two nights in Killarney and found a wonderful little B&B outside of town where the owner had his own Jaunting cart. "Michael" took us (free) over to Muckross Abbey and all the way aroung the little lake (espensive and not included if you paid for the "tourist" cart drivers in downtown Killarney.)
Michael - "You WILL listen to me now! You'll be after spendin' all your money on those drivers in town!"
We went to the famous "Danny Mann's Pub" for Irish music - we thought - but it was all just American Rock and Country. The younger local crowd loved it but we felt a bit dissappointed. I asked the band leader during a break about authentic "Celtic music" and he said, "Oh darlin, they'd be laughin' us off the stage here." I guess we were there too early for the resurgence of Celtic interest, which my aughter Sara, and John Jackson have explained to me is what the town of Doolin is all about nowadays. I know the Clancy Brothers, Tommy Makem, and the Chieftains, etc. were around back then but I guess it was less widespread at that time.
My favorite memory was our visit to Dingle, which we learned was referred to as the "Last Parish before Boston." And I learned for the first time what the term "Irish Wake" really meant. When family members left for "Amer I kay", they knew they would never see one another again, so they called the priest, and a few musicains and cooked up a feast to celebrate the virtual "death to come". A few prayers and toasts, and a lot of music and food and libations and dancing - and tears before the morning "sail". That thought moves me.
We had dummped our rental cars for a day trip in a guided bus (much better way to learn the local history and culture) and found our way to the famous Doyle's Seafood house for lunch (wow expensive!). We saw the "strand at Inch" (where they filmed the horse race scene in John ford's "The Quiet Man", and we saw the other beach where they filmed the gun smuggling scenes in "Ryans Daughter". We went all the way out to the end of the point and stopped for a break, (where I seem to recall the tiny village was called "Ballydavid", but I cannot dind that on a map. The bus driver explained that we could use the restroom in that Pub but we must turn right inside the door to find it ourselves as "no one in the place will speak any english" (only Gaelic). We stared out at the "Blasket Islands" where as recently as the 1950's the government of Ireland finally had to move the last hundred or so residents off the island and back to the mainland due to the high cost of support facilities, transportation back and forth, and lack of school teachers for the few remaining islanders. I still have the small book about their history and have never read it.
But one of my fondest memories about Ireland is hearing the wonderful stories from my two daughters, who "youth-hostled" Europe after their Watterson graduations ("91 and "94 - I checked this time and got ithe dates right). On Megans' trip, older sister Sara went back and met her in Dingle for a few days. They found the place where you can rent the "wet suits" and go into the bay and actually swim with the Dolphins. (they were both superb competitive swimmers) Megan described a moment where a Dolphin came up behind her and slid himself between her legs, wanting her to ride him as he swam forward.
I keep this favorite photo from their days in "downtown Dingle". (never knew Mitchell or sometimes Mitchel - one "L" as in Mitchelstown - where all the Irish cheese in made) was an Irish name before going there.
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